A winemaker’s guide to: Germany & Austria

From captive kings to wind-swept plains and Wiener schnitzel. Join German genius Gerd Stepp and Austrian icon Herbert Zillinger for a culture (and wine) soaked jaunt through their homeland.

By Amis C | Published |

Welcome to the heart of Europe

Ah the great tradition of the European road trip. Packing the boot, loading up the cooler bag, catching the early ferry, and pointing your wheels resolutely south toward the Alps or the Riviera…

For decades, drivers have hurtled down German autobahns, treating Central Europe as mere background scenery to be zipped past on the way to somewhere else.

Big mistake.

This isn't a region to rush through. It’s a place where you could easily lose a week or two wandering off the grid.

What’s waiting for you is a corner of the world where you can poke around the crumbling cliffside dungeon where King Richard the Lionheart was held for a country-crippling ransom (nearly bankrupting the kingdom of England to secure his return). Or watch the sun set over rolling Austrian plains that were, hundreds of millions of years ago, a roaring prehistoric ocean.

Out here, the landscape is constantly evolving. It’s the ultimate partnership of old and new, combining 2,000 years of winemaking heritage with an independent, modern attitude to what goes in your glass. The signature style across both sides of the border? Pure, dry and absolutely bursting with energy.

So, you’d better bring yours (and a sturdy pair of hiking boots). It’s time to cut the engine, unpack the car, and dive into the spectacular backyards of two Naked legends from the beating heart of Europe...

Meet your winemaker guides

Gerd Stepp: the Pfalz prodigal son

"Willkommen! I’m Gerd. I’ve made wine all over the globe as a flying winemaker but the Pfalz has always been home. My family has been part of the winemaking DNA here for generations – my great-grandfather was actually one of the founders of our local co-op. Thanks to Naked, I was finally able to return, break away from the old system, and build my own independent winery from scratch.”

Herbert Zillinger: the Weinviertel whisperer

"Servus, I’m Herbert. My home is the Weinviertel, a region that may seem understated at first, but is incredibly complex beneath the surface. In a land of extremes – we let the wind, the sun and the soil do the talking. If you appreciate wines with a real sense of place, you’ve come to the right corner of Austria. Now let me show you around…"

The Pfalz: a cultural crossroads

To understand Gerd’s home in Pfalz, and his wines, it helps to understand the German concept of Heimat. Roughly translating to home or homeland, like so many German phrases, its meaning is far deeper – akin to the soulful connection to the specific place that raised you.

As Gerd tenderly reflects “I’ve lived and worked in places like New Zealand, the Western Cape in South Africa, Zimbabwe, Tuscany and London – all amazing in their own way – but the Pfalz has always been home. I grew up playing in these vineyards, and I always knew I’d come back one day.”

Positioned at the literal crossroads of European history, this stunning landscape of rolling hills and endless vineyards has been shaped by a cocktail of cultures dating back to Ancient times.

"The Romans were already making wine here long ago," Gerd explains. "You can still see the remains of Roman villas and vineyards around Bad Dürkheim, including the famous Weilberg winery site. Even before that, there were Celtic settlements dating back to around 500 BC. And of course, it lies at the heart of the old Holy Roman Empire."

Combine that with a period of French rule during the Napoleonic era – which left a lasting mark on the local dialect and food – and you get a region with a wonderfully unique identity.

“So many cultures have passed through here, and you can still feel their influence today – in the wine, the food, and the way people live."

But while the Pfalz is a cultural treasure, it’s the climate and geology that make it a viticultural goldmine.

A warm, sunny climate with long daylight hours, safely sheltered from heavy rain by surrounding hills and dense forest. “The Romans knew exactly what they were doing when they settled here,” says Gerd with a wry smile.

The real magic lies beneath the dirt – with a dazzling puzzle of soils, including sandstone, loess, clay, quartz and limestone formed by ancient coral reefs.

What does that mean for those of us who aren’t soil experts? “Each vineyard has its own personality – and you really taste that in the wines.” Gerd insists. "I’m able to match each grape variety to its ideal microclimate and dirt. For example, I plant Pinot Blanc on limestone soils at around 220 metres for freshness and finesse, and Pinot Noir on sandstone for silky tannins and elegance."

And the biggest misconception Gerd enjoys shattering? The myth that German wine is always sweet. "In reality, most quality wines from the Pfalz are dry – especially Riesling.

Austria: open plains and saline sips

Now, as we head across the border into Austria's Weinviertel, if you’re imagining steep Alpine slopes and crystal-clear glacial lakes – Herbert Zillinger’s homeland will surprise you.

Tucked in the absolute north-east corner of Austria, right above the capital of Vienna, the Weinviertel is a huge expanse of open plains, rolling hills and shifting skies.

"It’s not a dramatic landscape," Herbert notes thoughtfully. "But it’s incredibly complex beneath the surface, and it reveals itself slowly, just like the wines."

The region is defined by the Pannonian climate – a system of intense weather extremes that delivers scorching daytime heat spikes followed by cool, refreshing nights.

Farming here requires a healthy dose of courage. Because Herbert dry-farms his vineyards using organic methods, he has no safety valve when extreme weather hits.

"The extremes challenge us every single year," he admits. "Drought, heat spikes, and sudden weather changes mean that working naturally requires close observation and precise timing. It means accepting more risk. But that risk means our wines are a true reflection of the Weinviertel.”

The result of that risk-taking? Wines of jaw-dropping depth. The Weinviertel’s loess and limestone soils shape whites that are pure, structured and full of tension.

"If you closed your eyes and took a sip, you’d feel the wind that moves across the open plains, and the warmth stored in the loess soils," says Herbert. "There’s an almost saline minerality – like an echo of the prehistoric soils beneath. There’s a misconception that Austrian whites are all light and simple. But in reality, we produce wines with serious depth and ageing potential."

We defy anyone to try Herbert's outstanding Organic Grüner Veltliner Reserve and disagree.

The itinerary: Riesling, castles and hiking

If you are currently plotting a grand European getaway – and frankly, Gerd’s home in Bad Dürkheim makes a perfect pit stop if you happen to be driving from the UK to the Alps – you’ll want to navigate the terrain with an insider's map. Here are your winemaker guides’ ultimate recommendations…

Germany: Gerd’s top tips in the Pfalz

Stop 1: The Wine Festivals & the 'Riesling Schorle'

Weekend life for a Pfälzer (local) revolves around village wine festivals, meeting friends and making new ones. “You must order a classic Riesling Schorle served in a Schoppe,” says Gerd, “a half-litre glass filled with dry Riesling and topped up with sparkling water. Very refreshing and uniquely Pfalz.”

Stop 2: The Palatinate Forest

Hike, run, or mountain bike through Germany’s largest continuous forest. You’ll probably bump into Gerd himself – “I’ve logged countless hours there, probably enough distance to circle the globe by now!” Or if you are feeling adventurous, head to the Dahner Felsenland to climb its world-class sandstone rock formations.

Stop 3: Trifels Castle

From ancient Roman relics to medieval forts and churches, the Pfalz is practically spilling over with historic relics to explore. “There are castles, monasteries and cathedrals everywhere – so you’ll never run out of things to do.” Gerd’s top tip is to make the trek up to Trifels Castle – the spectacular cliffside fortress where our very own King Richard the Lionheart was famously held captive on his journey home from the Crusades.

Austria: Herbert’s top tips in the Weinviertel

Stop 1: Embrace the expanse

This isn't a landscape of sheer mountain drama – it’s a beautifully quiet patchwork of rolling hills designed for slow travel. Rent a bicycle, pack a picnic, and spend an afternoon cycling through the quiet vineyard paths, enjoying the silence and space.

Stop 2: Hunt down the maverick cellars

"Austria punches well above its weight in the wine world because of a collective cultural focus on sustainability and small-scale integrity," Herbert explains. This is an incredibly welcoming wine culture with unique Austrian grapes like Grüner Veltliner, Zweigelt, St Laurent, Blaufränkisch and more – go out and find some of these small wineries and try something completely different.

Stop 3: A Viennese detour

The Weinviertel sits right on the doorstep of one of Europe's grand, romantic capitals. You are only about a 45-minute drive north of Vienna. So you can spend your morning marvelling at imperial palaces, listening to opera, or getting lost in the grand art museums – and by afternoon, flee the heavy tourist crowds to sit in a rustic courtyard with Herbert, drinking precise, saline whites straight from the source.

Must experience: the food 

In Central Europe, the culinary scene is a magnificent mix of hearty, rustic peasant food and highly refined elegance.

If you are uncorking one of Gerd’s Pfalz bottles, you have two delicious routes to choose from. For a deeply comforting winter feast "Wild boar cooked in Pinot Noir with pan-fried potatoes (Bratkartoffeln) and red cabbage is fantastic with our reds," Gerd says. "Or, if you want something lighter: local trout with spring potatoes and white asparagus paired with an aged Riesling from limestone soils – that’s a perfect match."

If you are feeling particularly adventurous, Gerd says to keep an eye out for Saumagen (a local stuffed pork delicacy that was famously the favourite dish of Chancellor Helmut Kohl) or the sweet, roasted chestnuts that appear at every village street corner in the autumn.

And of course, as Herbert says, there’s one dish you absolutely have to try when you find yourself in this corner of Europe.

"A classic like Wiener Schnitzel is hard to beat,” he smiles, “and it pairs beautifully with our fresh whites. But I also love more rustic dishes, like roast pork with caraway, or seasonal vegetable dishes like local asparagus, which really highlight the ultimate versatility of Austrian wines."

Ready to stamp your wine passport?

We’re immensely proud of Gerd and Herbert. They represent the best of what independent European wine can be: breaking away from corporate co-ops and rigid industrial recipes to create authentic, small-batch wines that tell the story of the land.

And you don’t need to wrestle with a European sat-nav or brave a chaotic channel ferry to join this flavour revolution. Gerd and Herbert have already done the heavy lifting for you – capturing that crisp Pfalz sunshine and wind-swept Austrian salinity in the bottle.

Planning an actual road trip?

If you are lucky enough to be packing the boot for a continental getaway soon, Gerd would love to show you his patch in the flesh. Head over to our Cellar Door page to book a tasting and meet a legend in person.

For now, the journey starts right at your kitchen table. It’s time to permanently retire the old sweetness myths and try something that genuinely makes your palate sit up and go wow. Get a golden schnitzel sizzling in the pan, pull a cork, and let these spectacular bottles transport you straight to Europe's most exciting wine frontier.

Prost!

Author

Amis C

Born in Norwich, I joined Naked in 2015 fresh from uni and quickly found a passion for wine. Now WSET Level 3 qualified, I love exploring the stories behind every bottle. Off-duty, you’ll find me running, birdwatching or singing (loudly) to Taylor Swift.