Wheels down, glasses up
After an overnight flight – two hours’ sleep, hair like a haystack – I land in Cape Town, sling my bag in an Uber and point it at Johan Kruger’s house. Held together by caffeine I stumble out of the car to be greeted not by Johan, but his better half, Sofie. Johan, it turns out, is an hour away in Franschhoek, deep in the middle of a Chardonnay masterclass.
Sofie takes one look at me – crumpled, slightly dazed – smiles, and kindly offers to drive. I gratefully accept, grab a lightning-fast shower and 10 minutes later we’re back on the road, winding our way out of Cape Town. As the road curls between mountain peaks, the city gives way to open valley. Franschhoek – “the French corner” – is an hour out, tucked at the dead-end of the valley where rolling slopes look like they’ve been purpose-built to grow vines. If you kink your neck just right you can see Table Mountain off in the distance. If you don’t, you’ll probably see baboons (South Africa’s road hazards are a whole different species to ours).
We eventually pull up and find Johan mid-masterclass, in his element – pouring, chatting and introducing me to half the Cape’s wine elite. Me? I’m holding onto my glass for dear life and trying to pretend I remember what day it is. It’s not quite what I had in mind after a long-haul flight, but I’m not really complaining.
Home is where the braai is
After the event, Johan puts me up at his place – which is equal parts family home, tasting room and shrine to the braai. In South Africa, the sofa is pointed not at the TV but towards the cooker. There’s a tangle of kids’ football goals outside, a pack of very opinionated dogs (Kipi, Milo and a yappy but loveable little so-and-so called Flecky), and a crazy view sweeping all the way across False Bay.
The view from Johan’s back porch. Tough gig, right?
We get to work blending the new vintage of his Old Vine Chardonnay. Then Johan pulls out something top-secret – a Picpoul he’s been quietly working on to celebrate ten years with Naked. It’s one of the first Picpouls ever made in South Africa, and he’s naming it after his youngest son, Lukas. Naturally, 4-year-old Lukas decided to design the label himself. (The only casualty was Johan’s dining table – now covered in felt-tip ‘art’.)
Boutique barrel Tetris
The next morning I headed out towards Elgin to see Kobie and Faisal. They’re mid-move, meaning barrels are wedged into every spare corner of the winery and you have to shuffle sideways to get anywhere.
It’s gloriously boutique winemaking and Kobie’s in full mad scientist mode – popping bungs out of barrels, handing me tastes before I can even ask what it is. His motto comes from his old mentor: “Every year, do something that scares you. You might make gold, you might make rubbish, but you’ll learn.”
This year’s results are a Viognier that’s absolutely singing, and a white Cabernet Franc that… let’s say didn’t make the choir. “A bit sharp,” he admits – which is the polite way of saying it’s alarmingly acidic. But that’s how you learn, and sometimes you just might strike gold.
While Kobie keeps stacking the barrels, Faisal minds the spreadsheets and keeps the business side of Moerbei ticking along nicely. It’s a classic double act: as Faisal’s numbers savvy gives Kobie the time and space to chase ideas and create outstanding new wines.
Surprise guests (when Angels crash your trip)
Back at Johan’s, the universe has served up a treat. Two Angels, Chris and Vicky, are in South Africa for a 60th birthday trip – and swing by for a tasting. Johan had given me the heads-up and we kept my arrival a secret until the last second. Cue jaw-drops and laughter as we chat, swap stories, and raise a glass to good health.
They even give me a lift into Stellenbosch – thanks again, guys – and it was a very personal reminder (not that I needed reminding) of just how special the Naked community is.
Two Angels, one winemaker and a slightly dishevelled Wine Guy in their element.
Oh, and if that’s got you daydreaming about meeting your favourite winemaker, have a peek at our Cellar Door page. That’s how Chris and Vicky pulled off their visit – and so many of our winemakers would be thrilled to pour you a glass in person.
I refuel on sushi, acquire a sizable quantity of biltong and droëwors from a local butcher (for the crew back at Naked HQ) and meet Reenen Borman for the next leg of my adventure.
Hallowed ground: the Epilogue
Reenen’s Epilogue vineyard is holy ground for South African wine fans. Ancient vines clinging to the slopes, sun beating down, silence that hums. This is the site where one of the country’s finest reds is born, and you can feel it.
There’s also a fascinating bit of viticultural science going on with Reenen’s vines. See, Shiraz vines are prone to something called dead arm, which eventually forces you to grub up and replant them. But Reenen’s vines don’t seem to get the memo. They keep going. Researchers are taking cuttings to understand why – as there might be something future-proof in their genetics.
We wander through the rows talking cover crops, mulch, and the art of working with nature, not against it. Then we climb to the top of the hill with a bottle of single-barrel Epilogue, which usually gets auctioned for charity by the Cape Winemakers Guild. The wine’s glorious, but it’s the view that steals the show.
It’s one of those moments that make you stop and think: this is where the magic really happens. Not in an office, not via email. It’s here, talking with Reenen on home turf about anything and everything.
One evening I really won’t forget
That evening, back at Johan’s, we sit down for dinner with Madeleine and Zaria – Arco Laarman’s wife and daughter. It’s the first time I’ve met them in person since we lost Arco last year, and it’s emotional for everyone. We eat Karoo lamb hot off the braai, tell stories, and raise a glass to Arco.
Meeting with Madeleine and Zaria was a privilege – Arco would be so proud.
Thanks to his old friend Johan’s help, Arco’s final wines made it safely to the UK earlier this year – and reading the comments from Angels who’ve loved them has been bittersweet. Each glowing review tinged with the slight sadness of knowing these will be his last.
Every penny of profit from those bottles will be going to a fund supporting Zaria’s education (it didn’t feel right for us to make anything off these wines). And over dinner, Madeleine told me how much it meant to her “Even after death, it’s good that Arco is still looking after us.”
It’s the kind of night that reminds you why we do what we do. If you want to raise a glass to Arco, you can find his final wines and read his story here – his wines are truly one of a kind, just like the man himself.
The Cape Winemakers Guild: not your average trade fair
If your reference point for a business convention is a formal suit and tie event at the Excel, the Cape Winemakers Guild shindig will melt your brain. I walk in and it’s carnival – music, face-paint, laughter, the energy of a football crowd (in wine terms at least).
No one wears “wine festival chic” quite like Carmen Stevens.
I bump into loads of the Naked family – Carmen Stevens, Bruwer Raats, Jamie de Wet, Richard Kershaw, Francois Haasbroek, and of course Kobie again. There’s so much energy in the room.
My notebook looks like a conspiracy theorist’s corkboard by the end, but it’s full of ideas that are making my palate itch to get back to work. And on that note…
A few bright ideas I’m bringing home
Every trip like this involves a few “ooh that sounds tasty” conversations that might just turn into something brilliant. Here are a few of the ideas that have my head spinning:
Johan Kruger – ‘Lukas Reserve’ Picpoul
A milestone wine to celebrate ten years with Naked. This would be the first South African Picpoul we’ve ever seen, bursting with appley freshness and elegance. It could define a new style for the Cape.
Carmen Stevens – Sauvignon Blanc and an intercontinental Naked Shiraz
Carmen’s working on a classy Sauvignon Blanc for a future Christmas treat. But she’s also plotting something very left-field that’s got me very very excited – a collaboration with Connie Schwaderer in Chile to make a South African / South American Shiraz.
Francois Haasbroek – ‘Cape Appassimento’
Francois has been trying out the Italian appassimento technique on his South African grapes – drying them before fermentation to intensify the flavours. It’ll be super dark, rich and velvety. Yum!
Bruwer Raats – ‘Cape Rosé’
A Provence-style rosé, but with the sunshine and spice of Stellenbosch. A guaranteed hit for summer from one of South Africa’s most celebrated winemakers.
Kobie & Faisal – ‘Blanc Atlantique’
A Rhône-style white wine born where the Atlantic meets the Indian Ocean. Textured, mineral, and absolutely delicious. There’s also a wine I’m eyeing up for the Fine Wine Club, but I won’t give too much away before I taste it again.
Of course, nothing’s guaranteed. My job now is to taste, test and translate these ideas into reality. To turn half-scribbled notes and barrel samples into actual bottles you can enjoy.
Back in time for breakfast
By the time I fly home, I’m held together mostly by biltong and adrenaline. The cabin crew think it’s helpful to serve breakfast at 3 a.m. (thanks team), and my train ticket turns out to be invalid. Classic. But somehow, I still make it home in time for actual breakfast – coffee and toast, followed by a 3-hour nap.
Still, I unpack with a grin. South Africa does that to you. The wines are extraordinary, the people even more so, and the stories – well, they stay with you for a lifetime.
I can’t wait to see what those bright ideas become once they make it into your glass. Dankie South Africa!
PS. Here's a little sneak peak at the first draft of the label for Johan's 'Lukas Reserve' Picpoul...
Courtesy of the man himself – Lukas Kruger. Heart officially melted.
